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STYLE: HOW TO CHOOSE THE PERFECT FITTING JACKET

by jojobateman

OKAY STYLE BUNNIES AS YOU KNOW I AM ALL ABOUT INVESTMENT PIECES FOR THE SAKE OF THE PLANET AND THE SAKE OF YOUR CLOSET. ONE KEY INVESTMENT PIECE MUST BE A WELL FITTING TAILORED JACKET. BUT IF YOU DO NOT HAVE THOUSANDS TO SPEND ON HAUTE COUTURE OR A BESPOKE TAILOR THEN LET ME GUIDE YOU THROUGH GETTING THE SAME LOOK BUT (A LITTLE) CHEAPER. CERTAINLY WE WOULD BE LOOKING TO SPEND AT LEAST £300 ON A GOOD JACKET. BUT YOU WILL ONLY NEED ONE FOR A STAPLE IN YOUR BASIC WARDROBE.

Two of my current favourite Jackets Alexandre Vauthier and Moschino

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

FIT

When trying a Jacket on check for the following:

  • Shoulders of the Jacket should sit no more than one half an inch over your natural shoulder
  • Rotate arms over your head you should be able to do this comfortably
  • Collar form neck to bust line should sit smooth and flat
  • The Jacket should button easily but not too loose. Place one hand between the Jacket and your body it should sit comfortably between the two
  • Ensure the sleeves are the correct length. they should fall at the base of the hand. A good test is hold both arms out in front of you if the sleeves pull up above the wrists they are too short

LENGTH

  • The golden stylist rule here is your Jacket should cut off at the part of your body you wish to highlight. If you want to disguise large hips your Jacket should fall below the hips.
  • If you wish to emphasize a small waist then choose a jJacket that sits on the hips and is fitted at the waist.
  • Consider your body shape. try different style Jackets to see what flatters you.
  • If you are tall and want to appear shorter the general rule is a longer Jacket to balance the body. But if you have great legs shorter Jackets can emphasize longer legs.
  • Certainly though if you are short you will not want a longer line in your Jacket.
  • An ellipse shape (apple) may decide to go for a less nipped in at the waist style.
  • Employ a stylist for a couple of hours if you are unsure. Most large stores now offer this for free especially if you are going to be investment spending and you may get a glass of bubbly too while they do all the work. Would definately recommend.

LAPELS

  • Smaller lapels for larger bust
  • Wider lapels for small breasts or to balance body shape if you are a pear. to give you that sought after hourglass figure.
  • Large busts need a low button beneath the lapel to prevent gaping and pulling across a bust where the Jacket may fit perfectly.
  • Remember if you have read my earlier blog on body types you are angular or curved. Your lapels should reflect the line of your body. Curved lapels for curved body lines. Sharp lapels for more angular athletic body types.

POCKETS

  • Try to avoid flap pockets or overly decorative pockets on the hips if you don’t want to add weight to them.
  • I prefer a slit pocket on Jackets for overall fit and sleekness
  • Tailored jackets will sometimes have stitched the pockets shut. There is much discussion whether to cut these stitches or not . Personally I like to leave the pockets stitched to keep the line of the Jacket and to prevent it from becoming crumpled. Tailored Jacket pockets should never be used.

COLOUR

  • Once again if you read the article on discovering your colour type. You will already know what colours suit you. Choose a staple colour that will suit most things in your wardrobe. Some suggestions would be WINTER colouring BLACK, SUMMER colouring NAVY , AUTUMN colouring TAUPE SPRING colouring CREAM.
  • Or you may want a statement piece to wear with other neutral tones or jeans. Remember to stick to your correct palette to enhance your complexion and overall look.
  • I would stick to a basic colour for an investment piece as it should not be dictated by fashion however if you are attracted to a more dramatic Jacket be careful with the pattern or print. Basic rule large patterns make you look larger. Vertical stripes make you look taller. Small checks look better on a small frame. Larger checks look better on a larger frame. Personality also plays a part in bolder more dramatic prints. I often think a dramatic print on a timid shy person loses the person completely.
  • If you don’t know your colour palette enlist a colour therapist to ascertain yours. One hour is all it takes from £100. This is an investment as you will get a wallet of swatches of all the colours that suit you and go together in your complete colour palette. So every item of clothing in your closet will blend seamlessly. As far as I am aware no large stores yet offer this service.

FABRICS

This depends on the climate that you live in. But strictly NO polyester,viscose or acetate. It is like wearing plastic and will have you perspiring . Sweat patched under the arms is not a good look !! Other than that if you find a great Jacket and it fits perfectly dont sweat (see what I did there) the small stuff.

So there you go Stylistas my GO TO Guide to finding the perfect Jacket. So once lockdown is over schedule a day – time to Shop once more ! This is one time when mail order WILL NOT WORK for you.

JOJOS PICKS

Some of my favourite Jackets right now including my Alexandre Vauthier for half price !!!! (Very annoyed face)

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SHOP THE LOOK

JOJOS STYLIST TIP: NOT ONLY DO LARGE STORES PROVIDE PERSONAL STYLISTS NOW BUT THEY ALSO PROVIDE OFF THE PEG TAILORING AT A MINIMAL COST OR EVEN FREE TO ‘TWEAK’ THE GARMENT FOR A PERFECT FIT. ENQUIRE WITHIN STORE WHETHER THIS IS A SERVICE THEY OFFER.

MWAH MWAH

JOJO XXXXXXXX

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